A spunky mother/daughter duo remains dedicated to operating one of Pittsburgh’s most historic establishments.
Original Oyster House co-owners Renee Grippo, whose nickname is “Mrs. G,” and daughter Jen Grippo are the female leadership team behind the pearl of a pub famous for its mostly fried seafood — oysters, fish sandwiches, crab cakes, shrimp — cold beer, and the storied energy that permeates the bar side and two accompanying dining rooms.
May is always an emotional month for both women because that’s the month they lost their husband and father, former Oyster House owner Louis J. Grippo (known as “Mr. G”).
“I’d hope he’d be proud of us,” said Jen Grippo, 36. “He’d just want to make sure that we’re carrying on the family legacy and still having fun. I think if we weren’t having fun, he wouldn’t want us there.”
Louis Grippo frequented the Original Oyster House as a boy growing up in the 1930s in what was then a much grittier Downtown.
He was a teenager when he was caught stealing a fish sandwich and a pop from the Original Oyster House, then owned by the Americus family. He was kicked out of the tavern. The story goes that Louis Grippo brazenly declared that he’d return one day to buy the business.
He did just that in 1970 when the Americus family sold the establishment, touted as the oldest continuously operating bar and restaurant in Pittsburgh.
Mary Americus sold the tavern to “Mr. G” after she was widowed. A black-and-white photo them enjoying fish sandwiches after the sale hangs inside the tavern.
Determination after death
Renee Grippo brings years of fine dining experience, from her time spent in Boston, and a positive attitude to work.
“That’s where I got a lot of my experience and that has taken me through the industry for many of these years,” she said.
Implementing a four-day work week has proved to be a good model for the business, Jen Grippo said.
“My goal is to make my family and community proud and carry a legacy and tradition that means so much to so many,” she said.
Jen Grippo had worked at the family business her entire life. One standout day during a waitress shift while in college still resonates with her.
That interaction proved to be a defining moment for her decision to dedicate her life to the family business.
“I had a table for their father’s funeral. … This lady told me, ‘Nothing has changed and this reminds me of my time with my dad,’ and she didn’t know who I was,” Jen Grippo said. “She grabbed my arm and said, ’keep it going.’ ”
Jen typically handles administrative, managerial and back-of-the-house, kitchen duties — and Renee is a front-of-the-house presence, interacting with customers and providing a warm and welcoming dining experience.
“I think Lou’s spirit is very much around. Anything that has been super good and recognizes our business, it’s always been around an anniversary or a birthday — April and May,” said Renee. “I don’t think I could survive without it. When I go to step away, it’s gonna be rough. I told Jen I’m giving you my five-year resignation.”
“Mom’s been giving me this five-year resignation for years,” Jen quipped back.
The Original Oyster House has been designated as a city landmark by the Pittsburgh History & Landmarks Foundation.
In 1870, women weren’t allowed to enter the Oyster House — except to work in the top third floor to prepare meals for the male customers — a 10,000-square-foot building men frequented for penny oysters and dime beers.
During the early rough-and-tumble days of the tavern’s existence, the Oyster House floors were covered in sawdust and the men’s room had a trough.
These days, you’ll usually find “Mrs. G” socializing with patrons. She said she’s happiest talking with customers, doling out free cookies and treats she brings in, and hearing everyone’s memories of their visits to the tavern.
Fish is the main dish
The Famous Jumbo Fish Sandwich ($14.50) remains the top seller.
Struggling to keep menu prices in check remains challenging in today’s market.
In 2017, a pound of cod was $4.25 and now it’s more than $9.50 per pound.
Oysters (original, breaded $2.50 each) are sourced from the Chesapeake Bay. The hand-mixed breading is the same recipe passed down from the Americus family.
Homemade New England clam chowder sold by the cup ($7.99), bowl ($9.99) or quart ($15.99), fish ‘n chips ($14.99), raw oyster shooters (three for $10.99), Maryland-style crab cakes ($13.75) and the fried clam strip dinner ($10.75) are menu highlights.
North Side resident Bernard Schley, 68, recently stopped in for a fish sandwich and a cold beer during a weekday lunch.
“I always come here. When I was 21, I would come here after work with the boys. It would be packed,” Schley said. “The fish sandwich sure tastes good with a draft.”
The Grippos expanded the Original Oyster House to nine locations, but now Market Square’s Original Oyster House location is the only one that remains.
“We put our heart and soul into every bit of this building and business,” said Jen. “My dad used to say, ‘You are serving all 90 neighborhoods of this city and beyond and it’s important for you to focus on your community outreach as well, because if the communities you’re serving are not thriving and successful, don’t ever expect this business to do the same.’ ”
Seafood simplified
Oyster House seafood is served up in a decidedly casual, definitely laid-back and positively non-pretentious atmosphere.
A staff of less than 10 hustles to handle lunch and dinner shifts four days a week.
Framed pics of past Miss America Pageant beauty contestants adorn the walls. (The Americus family had a house in Atlantic City and attended the competitions and insisted the pageant photos remain when Louis Grippo bought the business.) Sometimes customers ask Renee if she’s indeed one of the beauty pageant girls.
There are plenty of framed celebrity pics: Frank Sinatra, Franco Harris, Rocky Marciano, a photo of male patrons lined up at the Oyster House bar celebrating the end of Prohibition. The late Pittsburgh playwright August Wilson pre-planned to have his wake at the tavern and made provisions in his will to make sure he was remembered in seafood style.
Jimmy Carter stopped in during his presidential campaign and a black-and-white photo depicts the late president eating a large fish sandwich.
“He said it was too much fish for one man to eat,” Renee said.
The original wooden bar is no longer — it caught on fire in the 1970s — and had to be replaced with stainless steel.
The Grippos were gifted several ornate wooden booths used in one of the dining rooms (yes, there’s additional seating beyond the bar) when the restaurant was closed for three days for a movie shoot for “Drive Away Dolls.”
The Grippos have reunited with a piece of Oyster House memorabilia — a heavy, old sign that once hung above the eatery’s historical marker.
The sign disappeared decades ago without a trace, but a customer found it at an area flea market.
“All these years later, a customer notified Jen on Facebook and he brought it back,” Renee said. “He said he was honored to give it back.”
