An authentic taste of a yinzer staple awaits at Starlite Lounge in Blawnox, dubbed “Pittsburgh’s Pierogi Paradise” by owner Ronny “Moondog” Esser.
Pinching pierogi dough has evolved into a way of life for Esser and the staff members who make his family’s Slovak-inspired pierogi.
Starlite is casual, no fuss and decidedly real.
Just how Esser likes it.
“I learned to make pierogi from Father Miro of the former Holy Family Parish in East Deer,” said Esser, 67.
Two of his pierogi-making musts?
Fresh garlic from an Amish farm and lots of carmelized onions.
Esser, who grew up in Aspinwall and now lives in Frazer, is the second owner of the Starlite, which opened in 1947.
The old-school atmosphere offers two dining room areas with booths and tables, a cozy fireplace, a large, U-shaped bar and small stage at the front of the lounge for weekly live music gigs.
Manager, aka “Boss,” Diane Ross of Harmar knows her way around a pierogi platter after more than 18 years working at Starlite.
She said diners’ eyes grow wide when the pierogies arrive tableside.
“They’re huge — at a half-pound a piece,” Ross said. “The onions are caramelized, and they cook them in lots of butter and onions. I’ve never heard someone say it’s a bad pierogi, and they’re usually taking some home.”
Currently, three varieties of pierogi are offered: potato cheddar, spinach feta and jalapeno cheddar. They are sold as a trio (appetizer $9.95), a pierogi platter ($12.95) and a Polish Platter ($14.25), which includes kielbasa, sauerkraut and haluski.
Starlite was featured twice, in 2008 and 2020, on Food Network’s “Diners, Drive-ins and Dives,” which resulted in lines of people outside along Freeport Road and a dining boost for business.
That included a visit and cooking session with chef Guy Fieri.
Fieri even offered a culinary tip for Esser, suggesting adding a jalapeno pierogi to the menu.
“He was so fun and we got along great,” Esser said of cooking with Fieri.
Starlite also previously was featured on CNN’s “United Shades of America” with host W. Kamau Bell.
No small ’rogies
The humble beginnings of pierogi at Starlite Lounge was a bit of a fluke.
“When we first started making them, one of our employees made them bigger and we liked it that way,” Esser said. “It was all by the grace of God.”
Famous patrons who have noshed on Starlite pierogies include the Blues Traveler bandmates, the late Monkees guitarist Peter Tork, Dolly Parton’s longtime keyboard player and original Beatles drummer Pete Best.
Other menu top-sellers are the meatloaf, which is Esser’s late father’s recipe, fried cod and stuffed hot peppers.
“Everything we make is from scratch,” said Esser, who cooks with Jodi Lilly and his sister, Darlene Durand.
Esser makes his annual batch of very hot Hungarian peppers just like his late father, Arthur G. Esser (a former Aspinwall mayor), taught him — using Amish-bought peppers.
During the 1980s, Esser had owned Moondogs Pub for five years and worked at a grocery store when the opportunity to buy Starlite presented itself.
Moondogs, two doors down from Starlite, is known for hosting live music since 1989.
The success of both businesses largely is due to Esser’s tireless work ethic.
“I had $300 bucks and 10 cases of beer, and I had to sell my car and my father co-signed the loan for me. I’m living proof that if you work your rear end off, you can get what you want. I didn’t have anything,” Esser said.
More than 50 years later, Starlite has gained a loyal following as Esser combines his love of music and cooking with both businesses.
“Cooking and music go together nicely,” Esser said.
Esser, a Fox Chapel Area High School alumnus, graduated with a journalism degree in 1983 from Point Park College, now Point Park University.
Ronny married June Esser 28 years ago and said she’s a very patient wife.
“June has been supportive. Who wants to be married to someone coming home at 1 a.m.? Does it get old for her? Yes. She puts up with me. I think she likes the pierogi — that makes her stay,” Esser quipped.
Esser makes homemade haluski that pairs well with pierogi.
Pierogies are sold three for $10, six for $16 or a dozen for $28. Frozen to-go pierogi is sold for those looking to prepare them at home.
Esser’s son, James, 23, works alongside his father and helps with dish-washing, running food and as a server.
“James keeps me in line and offers emotional support,” Ronny Esser said.
James enjoys interacting with patrons, and many of the employees are relatives.
“It’s fun and people say the food is real good,” James Esser said.
The Essers have no plans to end their passion for pierogi.
“I’ll be on the pierogi trail till the train ends,” Ronny Esser said.
Starlite Lounge
364 Freeport Road
412-828-9842