Chef Blakely Gove was trained at the Culinary Institute of America in New York and knows a trick or two about creating dishes both delicious and visually stunning.
The O’Hara native is pouring her craft into the kitchen of Harvest on Main, dishing up food meant to “nourish people’s souls.”
The Sharpsburg spot opened in March and eliminated the borough’s designation as a food desert.
“I heard about what they were doing here, and I wanted to be part of it,” said Gove, 43. “Sharpsburg needed to have fresh food in walking distance for people.”
The small-scale, full-service market is operated by the Second Harvest Community Thrift Store, also in the borough.
People can stop by to fill a cart with essentials — but a large draw is for Gove’s prepared dishes, available 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. weekdays.
On regular rotation are Better than Betty’s meatloaf, Boss’ Bangin’ BBQ pork and Nana’s wedding soup.
“This is truly a place intended for people to have access to fresh food where that previously didn’t exist,” Gove said. “There’s something for everyone.”
It is the only place in the borough with fresh produce. Shoppers can use EBT/SNAP benefits.
As a child, Gove was hooked on the Food Network. She experimented in the kitchen because her mom “was not the biggest cook,” she said, laughing. Her passion was solidified by the time she graduated in 2000 from Fox Chapel Area High School.
When she finished classical training at the culinary institute along the Hudson River, Gove came home to the Lower Valley to launch her career. She spent 10 years as executive chef at Luke & Mike’s Frontporch in Aspinwall and, before that, eight years at the Cafe on Main in Sharpsburg.
The fast-moving rhythm of Harvest on Main suits her, Gove said. She is learning what dishes are most requested — Grandma Flo’s meatballs are the clear winner — while beginning to shape future, seasonal menus.
“I’d put our meatballs up against any restaurant in the city,” said Bonnie DeMotte, Second Harvest founder and executive director. “Although, I am biased. It’s my grandma’s recipe.”
In the two months since the market/cafe opened, DeMotte said, public response has been overwhelming.
“It’s affordable and welcoming,” she said. “We have a bakery, deli and a little bit of everything you might need.”
Grilled chicken thighs sell out regularly, and the strada made with sourdough focaccia from Morningside Bread Co. also is a favorite.
Gove leads the kitchen with the help of several skilled volunteers. A group gathers every day to chop veggies, roll meatballs and package meals. Some are retirees while others are high school students.
“They’ve surprised me,” she said. “Their culinary skills are amazing. I’ve worked with people in restaurants my whole career, and they were not half as talented as these volunteers.”
Gove doesn’t have a culinary preference or specialty but said she revels in seasonal and lighter fare. She waits, both excited and nervous, for feedback from customers.
“Last week, we did a sesame ginger carrot ribbon salad and people seemed to love it,” she said. “Lemon basil chicken is another favorite.”
A fan of minimal ingredients and bright flavors, Gove said she looks forward to summer harvests of tomatoes, zucchini, berries and peaches.
Above all else, she said every meal is made with intention.
“This is food that we hope people want and need,” she said.
“It’s been fun to be back in the area and talking to people. I’m the lucky one.”
Second Serving benefits community
A new program at Harvest on Main is helping prepared foods reach neighbors instead of going to waste.
Second Serving is a full-circle approach to making food go further, Executive Director Bonnie DeMotte said.
Fresh items such as ready-to-heat meals, fruit and salads are discounted as they reach their sell-by date. Leftovers are purchased through the Second Serving food budget and stocked in the Community Free Fridge at Second Harvest, just two blocks away.
In March and April, more than 380 meals and prepared items were shared, along with 17 pounds of cheese and 67 pounds of lunch meat. The value was more than $1,350.
“It’s one way we’re working toward a near-zero waste market, while keeping good food within just a few blocks of where it’s made,” DeMotte said.
Anyone interested in donating can visit second-harvest.com.