Some recipes are synonymous with a particular place.
Chicago is hot dogs and deep dish pizza. Can you even think about cheesecake and bagels without New York coming to mind? Philadelphia is more than just cheesesteak — think soft pretzels, scrapple and water ice.
And then there’s Pittsburgh.
Our food moments are just as iconic. A Primanti’s sandwich towering with meats, tomatoes, french fries and sweet-tangy coleslaw. The Isaly’s-inspired barbecued ham sandwiches with zippy sauce coating razor-thin ham. Is it even a steak salad if it doesn’t have fries instead of croutons?
And when it comes to dessert, Brooklyn can keep its blackout cake. We’re more than happy with Prantl’s burnt almond torte, layers of golden cake filled with rich custard, enrobed in sugary frosting and finished with an absolute blizzard of deeply toasted flaked nuts. It sounds cavity-causing sweet, and some bites are. But others are mellow and rich, giving you an experience that changes with each forkful.
These dishes are part of the area’s DNA. Some are closely identified with the restaurants that first served them, but they have expanded outside those menus. Others are just as comfortable being enjoyed at your kitchen table or in front of your TV. If your mom didn’t make some ham barbecue on a soft roll, your grandma probably did.
Re-creating those legacy dishes at home is satisfying. We still want to visit Primanti’s for a sandwich, but we can also make our own at home between visits.
Or make a mash-up of favorites: imagine a fry-topped salad built on coleslaw instead of bread and lettuce. Don’t feel like you have the decorating chops to swing a burnt almond torte at home? Use all the flavors and construct an easy version with the same flavors — a toasted almond trifle layering cake, pudding, fluffy whipped frosting and nuts with a little cherry jam for fun.
Pittsburgh’s well-loved food favorites are just as iconic as a Boston lobster roll, Texas brisket or a slice of Key lime pie. They are also as close as your own kitchen.
Toasted almond trifle
Pastry cream
2 1/2 cups whole milk
1/4 cup amaretto
1 large box cook and serve vanilla pudding mix
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon vanilla
Using milk and amaretto, prepare pudding according to package directions. When thickened and removed from heat, stir in butter and vanilla. Pour into a dish and cover with plastic wrap touching the surface. Refrigerate until chilled through.
Vanilla buttercream
1/2 cup room temperature butter
2 1/2 cups confectioners sugar
2 tablespoons heavy cream
2 tablespoons amaretto (or 1 teaspoon vanilla and one teaspoon almond extract, plus another tablespoon of cream)
1/2 teaspoon salt
With an electric mixer, whip butter for at least three minutes, but preferably five. Don’t cheat. You want your frosting light. Add confectioners sugar a little at a time, beating until well incorporated. Add cream, amaretto and salt, whipping on high until fluffy. Finished frosting should have a texture more like whipped cream than a spreadable frosting. (Shortcut? Take a can of prepared cream cheese frosting, 1/4 cup cream and some amaretto or almond extract and beat with electric mixer for three to five minutes until about doubled in volume.)
Caramelized almonds
4 ounces flaked almonds
1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon amaretto (or water)
In a frying pan, saute almonds with butter, sugar and amaretto until fragrant, browned and lightly caramelized. Cool completely.
To assemble
Vanilla cake (from white or yellow cake mix, prepared, or made from scratch), baked in a 15 by 10-inch sheet pan
12 ounces cherry jam
Cut cake into cubes or rounds. In a deep dish, preferably a steep glass bowl or trifle dish, layer components. Start with cake, top with pudding and jam. Repeat. Finish with buttercream and caramelized almonds. Chill until ready to serve, at least 1-2 hours.
Pittsburgh Strip steak salad
Coleslaw
2/3 cup apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup vegetable oil
Salt and pepper to taste
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 teaspoon celery seed
6 cups shredded cabbage
1/2 cup shredded onion
1 cup shredded carrot
In a small saucepan, simmer vinegar, sugar, oil, salt, pepper, cayenne and celery seed until sugar dissolves. Set aside. Mix cabbage, onion and carrot in a bowl. Pour vinegar mixture over. Cover and chill.
To assemble
16 ounces cooked, seasoned sliced steak (or chicken, or corned beef, or ham … have you seen Primanti’s menu?)
4 cups frozen french fries, baked or air-fried
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1 package grape tomatoes
4 ounces provolone or cheddar cheese, crumbled or shredded
Optional: ranch or thousand island dressing
Divide coleslaw over two to four plates. Top with fries, tomatoes, steak or other meat and cheese. Serve with more dressing if desired.
Yinzer ham barbecue
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
1/2 teaspoon salt
Pepper to taste
1/4 cup brown sugar
1 cup ketchup (We don’t specify brand, but do we really have to?)
2 tablespoons mustard (Yellow is classic but try spicy brown.)
2 tablespoons sweet pickle relish or finely chopped gherkins
1 pound deli ham, chipped (Yes, chopped ham is the original, but use what’s on sale.)
Rolls for serving
In a skillet over medium low heat, simmer vinegar with onion, salt and pepper. When onion is softened, add sugar, ketchup, mustard and relish. Simmer about five minutes. Slice ham into ribbons and add to sauce. Simmer another five minutes.
The go-to for serving is soft, squashy hamburger buns, but feel free to branch out. Buttery Texas toast or garlic bread makes a great vehicle, as does a baked potato.
Lori Falce is the Tribune-Review community engagement editor and an opinion columnist. For more than 30 years, she has covered Pennsylvania politics, Penn State, crime and communities. She joined the Trib in 2018. She can be reached at lfalce@triblive.com.