She doesn’t eat seafood, but that hasn’t stopped a longtime employee from making a career out of crustaceans and fish at Wholey’s in Pittsburgh’s Strip District.
Thelma Tambellini, 65, the longest-employed staff member at Wholey’s, is easy to spot in her standard uniform featuring a bright blue Wholey shirt and name tag.
“If I expect the employees to wear a uniform, then I do too,” said Tambellini, who reported for her first day at work on Dec. 2, 1978.
She’s worked at the fresh seafood, meat, poultry and produce market for 46 years and has no plans of retiring, although these days she does fewer heavy lifting jobs on the job.
“But if they need me to go package meat, I can,” she quipped.
Tambellini was 19 when she applied on a whim to at Wholey’s at the recommendation of a friend.
She was hired by the late Robert C. Wholey, son of Robert L. Wholey, who opened the business in 1912.
“My first day walking through the door I was very nervous and I didn’t know what I was getting into,” Tambellini said. “I never thought I’d be here 46 years later. But here I am.”
Tambellini recalled her initial job interview.
It was her first visit to the seafood emporium and she had recently graduated from the former Perry High School.
“My interview consisted of me being asked what my father and mother did and when did I want to start?” Tambellini said. “It was my first time here. I didn’t know what I was doing.”
When she asked a co-worker how much potatoes were while ringing up groceries, the worker corrected her.
“They were scallops. Not potatoes,” she recalled. “I was very shy, very timid and it was overwhelming learning all the seafood.”
Her Wholey jobs have included cashier, which led to administration, then director of promotions and next was director of operations and finally, assistant general manager.
“It’s a part of my life. It’s a part of who I am today and why,” said Tambellini, who grew up on Pittsburgh’s North Side. “I was born here and I stayed here — and Wholey’s is my home away from home.”
She fought back tears describing her employers.
“The Wholey family are wonderful. They’ve been very good to me,” Tambellini said. “They make everyone feel like they’re a part of the family.”
Wholey’s is owned and operated by three Wholey brothers — Jim, Sam and Dan Wholey.
CEO Jim Wholey described Tambellini as a leader and go-getter.
“She was trained by my father and he hired her. She understands the importance of the customer,” Jim Wholey said. “She could do my job easily.”
Tambellini lives in West View and never had any children of her own, but is a stepmom and step-grandmom.
Friends and family often inquire why she’s worked at the same seafood business for so long.
“They say I’m crazy. No one stays at a job this long. It’s rare. But this is where I need to be,” Tambellini said.
“Kids love it here. We actually cater to kids and have several animated figurines like the train, talking cow and singing pigs,” Tambellini said.
She said the kids often comment on the strong seafood odor that she’s long been desensitized to.
“I smell nothing,” said Tambellini.
Customers can buy her namesake homemade fudge, Thelma’s Fudge, a sweet staple at the store.
Tambellini pointed out an industrial ice machine where more than 40,000 pounds of ice is made daily to meet demand throughout the market.
With a blue handheld lobster catcher tool in hand, she deftly grabbed several lobsters from a tank.
“They like to go hide out in the back of the tank. They’re smart,” she said.
Customers can find Tambellini walking the store, always on the lookout to make sure the shelves are stocked properly and to interact with patrons.
“If customers look confused, I’m there to help. Any department and anything needed, that’s what I’ll do, help.”
The live lobsters are a draw, sold at a rate of about 1,000 per week.
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“Shrimp, crab and lobster are the top sellers,” Tambellini said. “Our seafood counter is our prime jewel.”
Thelma’s late mother, Clara Tambellini, worked here beginning around 1996 as a greeter from the age of 86 to 92.
“She was very sassy and fun,” Tambellini said.
Wholey’s has about 65 employees and Tambellini’s job duties involve hiring and terminating.
“I’m serious when I have to be and I run a tight ship,” Tambellini said of her work ethic. “Firing is the most difficult part of the job.”
An enormous pig was one temporary employee Tambellini had to take care of all in the name of a Wholey’s sales promotion.
“The pig was something that would get customers in the door,” Tambellini. “I heard about a pig that was on ‘The David Letterman Show.’ I called the show and we hired Chief, the 1,500-pound pig.”
Chief worked two days at Wholey’s.
Tambellini’s typical workday involves plenty of behind-the-scenes work, including training employees and fielding questions from shoppers.
Customers always want to know, “How fresh is your seafood?”
“It’s live, it doesn’t come any fresher,” she said.
She gets a 10% Wholey’s discount, and said she enjoys visiting with customers from all over the world.
Occasional encounters with seafood shoplifters are par for the course and she’s witnessed a man stuffing a pack of steaks in his underwear and a lady once put crab legs down in her pants.
Tambellini averages four shifts per week.
“I have a lot of vacation time. There’s some perks to being here as long as I have,” Tambellini. “I do take my time off, but I’m always a phone call away.”
Undecided about when she’ll call it quits, Tambellini is preparing for her inevitable retirement day.
“I’m trying to train an employee to replace me. I’m not comfortable leaving until I can replace myself from a business point of view. It’s important to me that when I walk away, the transition is seamless,” she said.
Joyce Hanz is a native of Charleston, S.C. and is a features reporter covering the Pittsburgh region. She majored in media arts and graduated from the University of South Carolina. She can be reached at jhanz@triblive.com