“Compliments to the chef” takes on a whole new meaning with a special dining experience in Western Pennsylvania.
Oftentimes, a diner would relay that message to the chef through a member of the restaurant’s waitstaff.
But with chef’s tables and chef’s counters — spaces located in restaurants including Ritual House in Downtown Pittsburgh; the Hyeholde Restaurant in Moon; One by Spork, formerly Spork, in Bloomfield; and EYV Restaurant on Pittsburgh’s North Side — chefs are present and involved in serving multiple courses they’ve curated.
The chefs meet and talk with the people before, during and after the meal.
Strategically placed in or near the kitchen, these tables and counters give diners the opportunity to meet the person preparing the food and provides a close-up view of the action. Chef’s tables and chef’s counters are having a resurgence, said Ed Smith, executive chef at Ritual House.
“They add that personal touch and they are about the experience,” he said. “The experience is what guests are looking for.”
Think of it as going to an art show where you get to meet the artist who took the time to create a painting.
In this case, it’s the art of making food.
“These dinners are both delicious and educational,” said Joe King of Regent Square, who was dining with friends at the chef’s table at Ritual House. “You get a high level of excellence.”
Joining him for the adventure was Chris Arter of Oakland, Abby Murphy of Mt. Lebanon and Tamiah Bridgett-Alexander of Garfield.
At Ritual House, the chef’s table is tucked in a space a few steps from the kitchen, where executive chef Ed Smith and his team work to create unique dishes. Dining in this way is interactive and in an intimate setting.
“It’s all about creating a vibe and affordable luxury with ingredients from all over the world,” said Smith, who also has hosted chef’s dinners for larger party sizes with themes such as “Harry Potter” and “The Titanic.”
Asking questions
Several Western Pennsylvania establishments offer this type of personalized dining option.
Prices range from $125 to $275 per person and don’t include tax and gratuity. Alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverage pairings are sometimes included or are an option for an additional cost.
“We really enjoy doing this,” said Chris O’Brien, executive chef and owner at Hyeholde. “I think we were one of the first restaurants in this area to offer a chef’s table. I think we are a hidden gem.”
Hyeholde started a chef’s table in 1997.
O’Brien said he, chef de cuisine Ray Spencer and pastry chef Emily Bourdin use their creativity for dishes. The food often is paired with beverages that complement the courses.
“The guests get to see how we create the dishes, and we walk them through the process,” O’Brien said. “They get a firsthand look from start to finish. It is an opportunity to see how our kitchen runs and what we do. Diners are often pleasantly surprised to see the amount of calmness and quiet. They tell us they expect more screaming and tossing of things, but I tell them we are not (Fox TV show) ‘Hell’s Kitchen.’ ”
The chefs agree they could not do this without the assistance of staff members who enhance the experience by orchestrating everything so it comes together in a timely manner.
Usually, the dining parties are smaller in size.
The evening lasts two hours or longer giving guests time to savor each bite and sip. They are by reservation only. Guests can alert the chef about any dietary restrictions.
Chefs discuss each course. A restaurant’s beverage connoisseur takes the time to talk about how a drink pairs with a dish, from fresh salads and appetizers to creative main dishes and, of course, tasty desserts.
“Our guests ask good questions,” O’Brien said. “I love interacting with them.”
One of the discussions O’Brien said he has with guests includes the ingredients and where they are sourced. Some restaurants grow fruits and vegetables on-site such as Hyeholde and One by Spork. They know what’s in season and can incorporate those into dishes, said James Beard award-nominated chef Christian Frangiadis at One by Spork, where they serve one table of 16 guests.
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This type of experience is done across the U.S. where restaurants have blurred the lines between the front of the house and the back of the house, Frangiadis said. Each restaurant then adds its own flavor and personality to the experience, Frangiadis said.
“The culinary bounds in Pittsburgh have been pushed,” Frangiadis said. “There are so many establishments that have really been able to position Pittsburgh as a very interesting food scene. What we want people to know, it comes down to one service. For one time a night, we are taking all of the best elements and aspects of what we’ve done, and we are hyper-focused on impacting the experience and making every single dish important.”
“It’s about one table, one experience, one menu,” One by Spork beverage director Cecil Usher said. “We often send each other suggestions. We collaborate on everything because everybody’s viewpoint matters in this restaurant.”
The very nature of this style of dining is conversational, Frangiadis said. Since the chef also serves some of the dishes, they get feedback because they are in the middle of the circle talking to each guest, Frangiadis said.
“The most asked question is, ‘How often do you change the menu?’ ” he said.
Guided by the seasons, dishes range from lamb tartare to miso Chilean sea bass to Australian A5 Wagyu.
Frangiadis said this style of dining is popular now because people are more focused on an experience after missing the human element during the pandemic. He said chef’s tables and chef’s counters aren’t new but they’re definitely becoming increasingly popular because people want to see what’s going on in the kitchen.
It’s less about formality now and more about sharing the process, the stories, the behind-the-scenes action,” Frangiadis said.
“We’re not tied to a big menu with tons of variables,” he said. “It is a chance to really tell a story through the food and have a conversation with guests while they’re eating.”
It feels more personal, he said.
“We are inviting you into our house, and we are trying to get know you,” Frangiadis said. “We are putting on a production. We have the time to do it because we are focused on one party. It is nice that we crafted this concept because this is a great way to spend our time at the end of our careers (his and Usher’s), creating this experience for people because we won’t feel like we left anything on the table.”
Usher said the chef’s counter experience is about focusing intently on everything from the mood to the lighting, the music, the glassware and the plating.
A one-of-kind experience
What makes this a one-of-a-kind experience is usually the open access to a kitchen.
In the case of Michael Godlewski, chef and owner of EYV Restaurant, everything is visible. Godlewski said the interest in food shows has created more curiosity about food, which makes people care about what they are eating and drinking.
His restaurant is based around the eat-your-vegetables concept, which is what the initials in the name stand for. He said his favorite choice of vegetable to use at his chef’s counter changes with the seasons. He doesn’t use any meat but does incorporate cheese and dairy into the dishes.
“It’s an interactive experience,” Godlewski said. “It’s an open kitchen, so other guests in the other seating area behind the chef’s counter can see what is going on the kitchen, too. People are curious, and they love being able to sit at the counter and ask us questions. Each experience is personalized.”
Having a personal dining experience at Ritual House was wonderful, Bridgett-Alexander said. She said she enjoyed the conversation with Smith, and she can’t help but wonder what he cooks at home.
Murphy agreed with Bridgett-Alexander about the interaction with Smith, who spent quality time at the table. Murphy also said the pace of the meal allowed them to be able to savor each course.
It’s about relationships
Smith said being a chef is about the relationships he has made with fishermen and butchers and farmers and how those relationships help him bring the freshest ingredients into the kitchen and onto the table.
“I loved that chef explained each course because you don’t realize how much goes into the process,” Arter said. “And we didn’t feel rushed. This restaurant gives me a New York vibe.”
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Over the two-hour meal, King talked with Smith about where his inspiration comes from and how Smith adds a personal touch to each course. King said it was interesting to find where food is sourced.
“This is so cool,” said King, enjoying a homemade sugar cookie from a selection of goodies, a nod to the Pittsburgh wedding cookie table, with Smith sitting across the table. “Truly one of my favorite dining experiences at Ritual House. My compliments to the chef.”